Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
